Velociphile's Journey into Watches

Adhoc stuff about wristwatches. The technology of horology, escapements and patents to the industry and the market. Try me in Japanese or Chinese

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Return of the Pumpkin - ver 3.0


The Pumpkin is back! Yes! I was so pleased to discover buried in the SIHH/Basel material, Glycine have remade the sought after SST. It's available in a few other colours, and of them, I like the blue, but perhaps the original is the best. Look right and you can just make out the black/grey vertical split between the left and right sides of the dial.

Now, there are two versions: a full blown true 24h version (no not the D24) and the 12h version (shown right). However, in all honesty the 24h may be the purist's choice, but having been programmed from birth to read a normal 12 hour dial in a nanosecond, why fight it? (More on this issue here.) There is also a subtle but important difference between the 12h and 24h versions. The 12h version can track three timezones, but the true 24h can only track two. Why? because the 12H has a separate red GMT hand (one rev per 24h) which the 24H lacks (probably to differentiate it from the D24). Hence, two reasons to get the 12h version - more readable AND with more function.

So, the watch above right reads 10.10 either a.m. or p.m. (you will know which) by its mainhands not 20:10H and 10:10H by the GMT hand - rotate the 24h bezel and bingo, the third timezone is obtained. So, in reality you can track three different timezones perhaps arguably just as easily as the D24 but with a more traditional looking dial.

Despite a solid caseback, Glycine go the trouble to provide their ETA movement in Elaboré spec. You won't see the decoration, but the movement is regulated to a tighter tolerance than the Standard ETA movement.

I've always had a bit of a soft spot for Glycine, offering great value and an authenticity lacking in so many others' offerings. Definitely not cynical marketing and if a bit large, (it's 51.5 mm across the lugs which is just my limit...) this one might even fit me, especially as they have been careful to keep the thickness down and the lugs are curved back to follow one's wrist. Blue or traditional? Hmmmm, but definitely the 12h.

3 Comments:

  • At June 21, 2006, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Thanks for the heads-up. I like this watch, and your reflections on 12 hour dials have made me feel like I'm not the only one...

    That said, a question/comment -- has orange become the "it" color recently or has it been a main-stay of watch manufacturers for some time?

    Regards,

    -shawn

     
  • At June 22, 2006, Blogger Velociphile said…

    Thanks Shawn. Hmm orange; the new black? I think it's just highly visible at depth for dive watches. Bit of a fashion for it though I agree. In particular many products/companies have rebranded themselves with orange logos.

     
  • At June 22, 2006, Blogger Velociphile said…

    The question arose as to the spec of ETA movement used in the SST-06. Here is the speedy reply from: Glycine Watch (xxxxx @ glycine-watch.ch)
    To: veloc!phile @ gmail.com
    Date: 22-Jun-2006 08:36
    Subject: Re: Contact Form Glycine Watch SA

    Dear Velociphile,

    Thank you for your email. The Eta movement is elaboré execution, oscillating weight rhodium coated
    with special Geneva stripes (please see also on our website for
    technical specifications)

    Best regards
    GLYCINE WATCH SA
    xxx xxx

    www.glycine-watch.ch
    xxx@glycine-watch.ch
    Tel. +41 32 3xxxxxxx
    Fax +41 32 3xxxxxxx

    Many thanks to Eva at Glycine.

     

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