Friday, April 01, 2005

Patek Philippe Go From The Sublime to The Ridiculous.

Following on the coat tails of some great innovations from Patek like the silicon escapement wheel, shock proof escapement, Funky hairspring, New winding crown, & Collet as well as a clever new chronograph design comes, well, guess what? Patek have decided to go and do something seemingly insipid like ‘stuff’ the 240 LU movement from the 5055/5085 in the Nautilus case and create the so called ‘new’ 3712/1a.

Moonphase in a sports watch? Well why not? BUT in doing so they have also managed to downgrade the waterproofness to a lowly 60m because of the moonphase adjustment pusher. Some argue, so what, it's not a real sportswatch anyway; more of a tough 'dresswatch'. Hmmmm, some ‘Nautilus’ then, not exactly one that Jules Verne would be very proud of…… You know, for me, this is exactly the sort of thing PP should be good at; solving those kinds of problems, especially at its $20k price!

Click for a super hi res pic from AlbertoS and some more here by Suitbert Walter.

As for the design, well it's a bit uninspired. It looks like a simple, lunchtime, 'what-if' project in Photoshop from me. The location of the sub-dials is awkward with the Nautilus port hole dial shape. Arguably, it's a cynical low investment parts bin revamp..... It'll do, I may even buy one....but how about something genuinely new for the Nautilus PP?

Compare Patek’s original 5085 dial shown above with the new 3712. Which do you prefer?


Anonymous said...

I prefer the 5085 , but I wouldn't buy one as I prefer watches where I have the option of a leather or metal band , which , unfortunately , the 5085 doesn't offer....

Velociphile said...

Then consider the 5055 - same dial, leather strap.

Chris Launder said...

Unfortunately the 5055 ( as well as the 5054 & 5085 ) have been discontinued , by the time I could afford one the existing stocks will be gone , a stainless with leather strap would have been the go , at least for my humble budget .
I have a 5117 , which I am very happy with , but now seek to augment it with something a bit different to the quite common 3 hands and date at 3 o'clock.
The new gondolo 5111 also looks great , but they can't be serious with the 47 mm size , can they ??